It isn't a secret that I enjoy almost everything about food -- from it's beginning in agriculture to cooking and eating it. Most of my studies and career aspirations have been centered around food. It is one of my favorite ways to connect with people and places. This week I wanted to share a bit more about my experience with food in Uruguay. Welcome in!
When we talk culture, we talk food. While I believe that there is much more to culture than just food, I can agree that it plays a significant role. Food both dictates and reflects the culture of a place, time, and group of people. So lets talk about it. What do I eat in Montevideo and what is it teaching me?
Let’s start with the purchase. What are the options for buying food in Montevideo? The first option that comes to mind is “la feria.” Every week I visit una feria, usually in Parque Rodó, but this past week we visited la feria at la calle Dr. Tristan Narvaja. I noticed there was a lot more food available for purchase at this one. Still, you can usually find anything you need at one of these markets.
Ferias can be found every day of the week and they are usually the cheapest option, but there are also three types of food stores that I have learned about: 1) los kioskos (smallest), 2) los almacenes (medium), and of course 3) los supermercados (largest).
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Next…Mate. We can’t talk food in Uruguay without talking mate. This drink is a staple in Uruguay. Everyone drinks it. Uruguayans love their mate like Americans love spending all their money at Starbucks. It has been described to me as a very strong green tea. I would agree. It is an acquired taste, but I have also been told that about sparkling water and black coffee (look at me now). There are two ingredients needed for Uruguayan mate: yerba (a dried, ground up leaf) and hot water. Other than that you just need your mate (the cup) and bombilla (the straw). Simple.
Mate is the caffeine we need to be energized for our day of work or school...but mate is also a walk along la Rambla or the beach. Mate is a gathering of friends. Mate is taking time to relax with a book or watch the sunset. Mate is a reminder to sit back and appreciate “una vida tranquila.“
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Okay, so we’ve covered the most important drink in the country. Let’s hear about the Uruguayan view on "the most important meal of the day"...el desayuno.
Breakfast is a much smaller endeavor in Uruguay. In the U.S., I am used to breakfast being the most important meal of my day, but here it is usually something small and sweet. Each morning I wake up to Patricia in the kitchen putting together our usual breakfast options: a couple slices of toast, some peach jam, membrillo (similar to jam/jelly), or dulce de leche. Some cookies/crackers, instant coffee, and tea always make it on the table as well. On occasion there is a fruit of sorts left out for us but I am learning that this is not common for an Uruguayan breakfast. Fruit is viewed more as a dessert.
The star meal of a typical Uruguayan day is la cena (dinner)...and it is eaten late! Like 9:30-10:00 pm late. The trend of “una vida tranquila” continues. Since our days begin later, they end later too. Here are a few photos of things we have had for dinner since being here:
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Las celebraciones/Las fiestas are another important part of the conversation surrounding food and culture. On Sunday, my host mom had a birthday! It was not unlike birthdays at home. At the center of this celebration there was a table holding a large spread of of food and drinks. As we sat around the patio, you could hear many voices going all at once. Some were catching up on each other’s lives and recalling memories, while other's offered more food or another glass of vino, cerveza, or Johnnie Walker Red (this one in particular made me smile).
With each dish prepared by Patricia‘s family and each drink poured for one another, I (re)learned this: food is meant to be more than fuel. Food should be shared with others to create memories and enjoy. Food is the ultimate display of love.
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Each food item has a story. From it’s origin in "la tierra"> to the shelf > to our kitchens > and finally, to our tables, food is a reflection of the way we interact with and care for one another. It is a way for many of us to pay our bills and provide for our families. It is empowerment and autonomy. It is an art. It is a science. Food can even teach us about the history of a country and/or culture.
Still, we often rush through our meals without thinking about the complexity of each step it took to make them. We grab what is convenient and quick without any interest in the story of how our food came to be.
"Well I would learn more about my food...but who has that kind of TIME?!"
I don't know, but when you find it, I hope you spend it sharing a beautiful meal and lots of stories with loved ones and new friends.
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Is this post cheesy? probably. I hope you enjoyed it anyway. This has been one of my favorites to reflect on and write. If it wasn't clear that I am in the right area of study and headed for a career path that I love, it is now.
Thanks for stopping by! Hope to catch up again soon!
Loved your food post! You’re so right! We hurry through most meals too quickly.